Diluted HCL - also called Muriatic acid - can be obtained from hardware stores, in the pool section
NaOH - also called lye
Ethyl Ether - aka Di-ethyl ether - Et-0-Et - can be obtained from engine starting fluid, usually from a large supermarket. Look for one that says "high ethyl ether content", such as Prestone
Ephedrine - The cotton in todays vicks nasal inhalers dont contain ephed or pfed (ephedrin or psuedoephedrin) but there are still lots of easy ways to get good ephed or pfed, pure ephedrin can be extracted out of plant matter, from a plant that can be bought at most garden stores. Or you can get pfed from decongestive pills like sudafed. Most people prefer to work with pfed from pills rather than ephed from the plant. The important thing is that you must have pure pfed/ephed as any contaminants will ♥♥♥♥ up the molar ratio leaving you with over-reduced ♥♥♥♥ or under reduced ♥♥♥♥. Or contaminants will jell during basefying and gak up your product which will then be very hard to clean.

So you want to find a pill that is nearly pure pfed hcl, or as close to pure as you can get. Also check the label on your pills and see what inactive ingredients they contain: Inactive ingredients are things like binders and flavours. These you dont want and will remove when cleaning your pills, but certain inactive ingredients are harder to remove than others.

You don't want pills with a red coating, you dont want pills with much wax, you also dont want pills that contain povidone. As a rule, if you have two pills that contain the same amount of pfed hcl then take the smaller sized pill because it obviously has less binders and inactive ingredients, time released pills are usually harder to work with because they have more binders and tend to get up during the a/b stage. Also only buy pills that have pfed hcl as the only active ingredient. You first have to make ephedrine (which is sometimes sold as meth itself): if you're selling it... I would just make ephedrine and sell it as meth.

Ethyl Ether: WARNING : Ethyl ether is very flammable and is heavier than air. Do not use ethyl ether near flame or non sparkless motors, it is also an anaesthetic and can cause respiratory collapse if you inhale too much.

A glass eyedropper
Three smll glass bottles with lids (approx. 3 oz, but not important) one should be marked at 1.5 oz(use tape or whatever and might want to label as ether). One should be clear (and it cant be the marked one).
A Pyrex dish (meatloaf one is suggested).
A glass quart jar.
Sharp scissors.
Clean rubber gloves.
Coffee filters.
A measuring cup.
Measuring spoons

1. Take unmarked small bottle and spray starter fluid in it until it looks half-full.
2. Then fill up the rest of the way with water, cap the bottle and shake for 5min.
3. Let it sit for a minute or two: and tap the side to try and separate clear upper layer.
4. Then draw off the top (ether) layer with the eyedropper, and throw away the lower (water) and cloudy layer. Place the ether in the marked container. Repeat this until you have about 1.5 oz. of ether. Put the cap on it, and put it in the freezer. You can rinse the other bottle and let it stand.

Ethyl ether is very pungent. Even a small evaporated amount is quite noticeable.

5. Pour 1/8 teaspoon of the lye crystals into the bottle of ephedrine and agitate. Do this carefully as the mixture will become hot, and give off hydrogen gas and/or steam. H2 gas is explosive and lighter than air, avoid any flames as usual. Repeat this step until the mixture is remains cloudy. This step neutralises the HCl in the salt, leaving the insoluble free base (L-desoxyephedrine) again. Why do this? So that we can get rid of any water-soluble impurities. For 3 oz. bottles, this should only take 3 repetitions or so.
6. Fill the bottle from step 5 up the rest of the way with ethyl ether. Cap the bottle and agitate for about 8 minutes. It is very important to expose every molecule of the free-base to the ether for as long as possible. This will cause the free base to dissolve into the (it -is- soluble in ether)
7. Let the mixture settle. There will be a middle layer that is very thick. Tap the side of the bottle to get this layer as thin as possible. This is why this bottle should be clear.
8. Remove the top (ether) layer with the eyedropper, being careful not to get any of the middle layer in it. Place the removed ether into a third bottle
9. add enough water to the third bottle to fill it half-way and about 5 drops of muriatic acid. Cap it. Shake the bottle for 2 minutes. When it settles remove the top layer and throw it away. The free base has now been bonded to the HCl again, forming a water soluble salt. This time we're getting rid of the ether-soluble impurities. Make sure to get rid of all the ether before going to step 11!
10. If there us anything left from step 3, repeat the procedure with it.
11. Evaporate the solution in the Pyrex dish on low heat. You can do this in the stove or nuke it in the microwave (be careful of splashing), but i have found that if you leave it on top of a hot water heater (like the one that supplies hot water to your house) for about 2-3 days, the remaining crystals will be ephedrine HCl. If you microwave it, I suggest no more than 5-10s at a time. If it starts "popping", that means you have too little liquid left to microwave. You can put it under a bring (100W) lamp instead. Microwaving can result in uneven heating anyway.

First batch : 120mg ephedrine HCl
Estimated: 300mg(100% of theoretical, disregarding HCl)

Now, making methamphetamine out of ephedrine by reducing it with Hydroiodic acid and red phosphorus.

Items needed :
Coffee filters (or filter paper)
Something that measures ml and grams
A flask (a small pot with a lid can be used)
Iodine
Hydroiodic acid (I will tell you how to make this)
Lye

*Optional (toluene and HCl gas)
Making red phosphorus: The striking pad on a book of matches is about 0% red phosphorous. The determined experimenter could obtain a pile of red phosphorous by scraping off the striking pads of matchbooks with a sharp knife. A typical composition of the striking pad is 50% red phosphorous, along with 30% antimony sulphide, and lesser amounts of glue, iron oxide, MnO2, and glass powder. I don't think these contaminants will seriously interfere with the reaction. Naturally, it is a tedious process to get a large amount of red phosphorous by scraping the striking pads off the matchbooks, but who cares?

Making hydroiodic acid:
This is made by mixing iodine and red phosphorous. When making hydroiotic acid from iodine and red phosphorous, the acid is prepared first and allowed to come to complete reaction for 20 minutes before adding the ephedrine to it. The way around the roadblock here is to just boil off some more of the water from the ephedrine extract, and make the acid mixture in fresh pure water. Since the production of Hl from iodine and red phosphorous gives off a good deal of heat, it is wise to chill the mixture in ice and slowly add the iodine crystals to the red phosphorous-water mixture.

Now, making methamphetamine:
To do the reaction a 1000ml round bottom flask is filled with 150 grams of ephedrine. Also added to the flask is 40 grams of red phosphorous and 340 ml of 47% hydroiotic acid. This same acid and red phosphorous mixture can be prepared from adding 150g of iodine crystals to the 150g of red phosphorous in 300ml of water. This should produce the strong hydroiotic acid solution needed. Exactly how strong the acid needs to be, I cant say. With the ingredients mixed together in the flask, a condenser i attached to the flask, and the mixture is boiled for one day. This length of time is needed for best yields and the highest octane numbers of this product.